Marcel Burger - Third time's the charm

A herd of sheep crosses the road in Jurgów, September 2025.

The Spiš region stretches deep into Slovakia, but has a section that has been Polish since 1918: Spisz—based on lands that were more than a millennium ago conquered by the then Polish duke Bolesław the Brave. But his reign over the lands was short-lived, as the Kingdom of Hungary took and reinforced its grip on the Spisz/Spiš region from the second half of the 11th Century all the way to two years after World War 1. As the Austrian-Hungarian Empire lost the war, so did Budapest lost control over the region. In 1920, most of the Spiš region became Czechoslovakian, apart from the little part north of the Tatra Mountains that was allocated to Poland.

In Poland, the Spisz region is situated east of the Białka River and south of Lake Czorstyn. It exists of 14 villages spread over just 195.5 square kilometres (75.5 sq mi): Czarna Góra, Jurgów, Rzepiska, Falsztyn, Frydman, Kacwin, Łapszanka, Łapsze Niżne, Łapsze Wyżne, Niedzica, Trybsz, Dursztyn, Krempachy, and Nowa Biała. It is a mainly rural area with a few hundred villagers to just over 2,100 in the biggest settlement (Niedzica).

The village of Jurgów, September 2025.

Jurgów

The village of Jurgów is likely the most visited one in the western part of the Spisz region, as road 49 leading to the Slovakian border passes through it. The border crossing itself was established in December 1996, only for locals living on both sides of the border. In 2005, it became a normal border post, to be abolished in 2007 when Poland joined the European Schengen area of free cross-border travel.

Jurgów is also a great start to start exploring some parts of the Spisz region, as it can be reached relatively easily with public transport and car. From here, a hike into Slovakia or to Łapszanka is an easy and attractive way to spend the day—with majestic views of the Tatra Mountains on a clear day. There is even a good chance one stumbles upon the sheep herds typical for the Tatra region, moving from field to field, up hill and down hill.

Front door of an old wooden house in the street leading to the church in Jurgów.

Jurgów's main street, with the Tatra Mountains partly covered in clouds in the background.

Kościół św. Sebastiana w Jurgowie, the St. Sebastian Church of Jurgów, built in 1675 and paid for by the village head of that time Jakub Kesza and the village's miller Mikołaj.

The water-powered saw mill of Jurgów is a real treat. Although much depends on the levels of water in the river Białka—and if the supply through a special canal does not freeze—the "Stary tartak wodny w Jurgowie" is still operational today. It looks older than it is, as the 19th Century mill was rebuild after a 1977 fire.

The old wooden saw mill of Jurgów, September 2025.

A rare find in Jurgów: a border mark of the old Kingdom of Hungary that ruled the region from the 11th Century to 1918.

Sheep herds

The southern parts of Małopolska province are known for their traditional ways of living. Here, one can still encounter herds of grazing sheep on mountain pastures. The sheep are the source of milk used for "oscypek", a special smoked cheese that comes in different types and forms. It is believed only 150 people are certified to make this cheese, and its special taste attracts locals and tourists alike.

Sheep crossing road 49 in Jurgów, September 2025.

The female shepherd herding the herd..

Portrait of three sheep, Jurgów, September 2025.

Hiking from Jurgów to the Slovakian border

From Jurgów there is a nice hike starting at the "green trail" alongside the Białka river, just south of the village. Near the local ski centre, once can start the climb towards Górków Wierch—the local high peak at 1,046 metres (3,432 feet) above sea level. At the peak, just into Slovakia, one has a nice view on the high peaks of the Tatras—if not obscured by clouds of course. Just before climbing up, there is a relatively big collection of traditional wooden shepherd huts. Most were relocated from other spots nearby.

The Białka river in Jurgów is passable at places.

A cluster of traditional wooden shepherd huts, just south of Jurgów.

A step into Slovakia.

Where on a sunny day the views of the higher Slovakian Tatra Mountains would be spectacular.

Hiking from Górków Wierch to Łapszanka

From the local peak of Górków Wierch to Łapszanka a bit of navigating is required to find your way to the trails. However, there are also a nice southern route through the fields directly from Jurgów itself.

The ferns form somewhat of clearing alongside the Polish-Slovakian border.

A red tractor in the field.

View at the hills leading up to the cloud-obscured Tatra Mountains, taken from the hike up from Jurgów to Łapszanka, September 2025.

View at Jurgów from the way up to Łapszanka, September 2025.

An old big wooden house in Rzepiska.

Łapszanka

Łapszanka is one of those places in Southern Poland with potentially great views of the Tatra Mountains without being in them. Until 1953 the major language here was Slovakian. Up to today, Polish linguists recognize the special dialect of the Spiš region that apparently is still spoken here.

A farmer collecting hay from the field in Łapszanka, August 2017.

The view at the Slovakian Tatras from Łapszanka on a clear day, August 2017.

Even on less sunny days, the view is still cool. September 2025.