Early morning near Borsele, December 2023
The province of Zeeland, the Netherlands. Levees protecting the land against the water, with surge barriers connecting the peninsulas with each other. Empty space, trees, agriculture, sheep and wind.
Zeeland is a popular destination for tourists, and with 3% more than the rest of the country the sunniest province of the nation. Spread across the peninsulas are cute towns, the provincial capital city of Middelburg and the important harbour city of Vlissingen. In the latter, one comes up close to big ships sailing in and out of nearby Antwerpen, Belgium. Zeeland is a regular area to visit for me, making this is a story that will forever expand a little bit.
Westerschelde, close to sunset, Zeeland, the Netherlands, August 2023.
Delta Works Storm Surge Barriers
After devastating floods during high tides and storm that left 1,800 people dead, the Netherlands embarked on an engineering journey to limit the length of its coastline in Zeeland and part of Zuid-Holland (South Holland). Here rivers and waterways find their way to the North Sea through a delta area, hence the name of the construction projects: the Delta Works. Dams, bridges and all kinds of systems were built to keep the low countries safe from the sea for the future. Arguably the most impressive parts of the Delta Works are its second to last major upgrade, the Maeslant Storm Surge Barrier (Maeslantkering) near Hoek van Holland and Rotterdam from 1997, and the Oosterscheldeg Storm Surge Barrier (Oosterscheldekering) in Zeeland from 1986.
The Oosterschelde Storme Surge Barrier, August 2023.
Wind turbine on the artificial island of Neeltje Jans, August 2023.
Goes
With about 30,000 people, Goes is the third largest settlement of the province of Zeeland; after Middelburg and Vlissingen. In modern times, Goes had its share of luck. It was hardly damaged in World War 2—despite fierce battles nearby—and stayed dry in the big 1953 floods.
Goes is a central town on the peninsula Zuid-Beveland. And being less-known as the cities mentioned above, it is also less crowded. It is certainly nice for a visit, with historic buildings, a nice central square and a cute harbour.
The city harbour of Goes, August 2023.
The historic city hall (left) and the Maria Magdalena Church on Goes' main square, August 2023.
See through towards the city harbour of Goes, August 2023.
Zierikzee
Zierikzee is the largest settlement on the peninsula of Schouwen-Duiveland. Until 1997, the town was its own municipality, but then all the villages and town merged into a new bigger one the size and with the name of the peninsula. The city hall of Zierikzee became that of the new municipality. The number of national monumental buildings in Zierikzee is relatively big: about 570. So, a visit to Zierikzee is certainly worth it.
The historic city hall tower of Zierikzee, August 2023.
Sights and scenes of Zierikzee, August 2023.
Domus street, Zierikzee, August 2023.
At Harbour Square (Havenplein), Zierikzee, August 2023.
The historic city hall tower, August 2023.
At Harbour Square (Havenplein), August 2023.
Saint Jacobs Court (Sintjacobshofje), August 2023.
The South Gate Tower and bridge, August 2023.
Detail of chains and robes in the harbour of Zierikzee, August 2023.
Den Haas Mill and the harbour of Zierikzee, August 2023.
Middelburg
Middelburg is the capital of the province of Zeeland. It is the most vibrant city on the peninsulas, but give yourself the right timing, and wander off inside the inner-city, and it does not have to feel busy at all.
The inner harbour, August 2023.
The East Church (Oostkerk) in Middelburg, August 2023.
Towards the Kuiperspoort, August 2023.
View from the Kuiperspoort gate, August 2023.
Ellewoutsdijk
With less than 400 hundred inhabitants Ellewoutsdijk is the smallest settlement within the municipality of Borsele. Nowadays, Ellewoutsdijk is most known for the entrance / exit of the tunnel that spans the Westerschelde natural waterway that flows from Antwerp and the North Sea.
Just behind the levee that protects the village against the waves are grazing lands for animals and fields for birds. Also, Fort Ellewoutsdijk is located here. Finished in 1839 after Belgium became independent from the Netherlands, the Nazi-Germans used it as a prison during World War 2. After the war it was used as ammunition storage. Since 1981 the fortress is a Nature monument, regularly open to the public.
The hardened path on both sides of the levee are popular among dog walkers, joggers and cyclists alike, who enjoy often windy conditions and views far away.
Vlissingen
Those who love ships, will love Vlissingen (Flushing in English). From the centre boulevards along the Westerschelde it sometimes feels one can almost hug the giant sea-going vessels that flow in and out Antwerp harbour, Belgium, further east.
The city has a beach right in the centre, for whoever does not want to wander further onto the former island of Walcheren. The city is alive, and certainly worth a visit when in the neighbourhood.
The skyline of Vlissingen seen from a boat on the Westerschelde, August 2024.
The city boulevard near the beach, in 2009.
The Keizersbolwerk (Emperor's Stronghold) at the entry point of the small harbour used by the pilots, is probably the best location to go ship spotting.
Fishermen have been using what is now Vlissingen ever since the 600s. It was a main harbour for the Dutch expansion, trade and occupation fleets into Asia in the 1600s and therefore has helped the Netherlands gain its wealth and status. Vlissingen kept its importance for the fleet, with shipyard De Schelde being the standard builder of ships for the Royal Netherlands Navy.
Ship spotting at the Keizersbolwerk, Vlissingen
Scheveningen fishing boat SCH-33 dwarfs against the background of the passing container vessel Maersk Hamburg, August 2024
Scheveningen fishing boat SCH-33 and container vessel MSC Athens in the Westerschelde
Scheveningen fishing boat SCH-33 in the Westerschelde
Container vessel Maersk Hamburg and a pilot boat in the Westerschelde
The Windrose light tower near the Keizersbolwerk
Taking aim at the incoming ocean going vessels, using the long lens.
Pilot boat 1 Jan Breydel
Fishing boat YE-138
Ships against the sunset, in Vlissingen, 2009.
Sint Anna ter Muiden
In the Middle Ages, this sleepy village of 50 had city rights (1242, as Mude) and a sort of city function. The geographical location of Sint Anna ter Muiden is pretty cool: it marks the Netherlands' most western point within Europe. Nowadays, the entire village is a protected, but living monument. A stroll through it might not take long, but is a joy for those who seek tranquil history.
Sint Anna ter Muiden
