Marcel Burger - Third time's the charm - Leirhnjúkur, Krafla and Hverir

Inside the Leirhnjúkur crater, Iceland, July 2025

Step onto a different planet when visiting the 10-kilometre (6.2-miles) wide Leirhnjúkur crater, part of the Krafla system and one of the most active volcanoes on Iceland. See geothermal smoke rising from the ashes, observe the bright white-blue volcanic lakes and stroll through a black lava rock landscape alternated by some of the most colourful hills and rock fields.

Bjarnarflag Geothermal Power Station, July 2025

Bjarnarflag Geothermal Power Station

Just outside the Leirhnjúkur, one of Iceland's oldest geothermal power station has its home. The Bjarnarflag Geothermal Power Station came online in 1969. According to its owner, Landvirskjun, the station generates 5 megawatts of electricity (42 GWh annually), using the steam from the ground, feeds the district heating system and provides warm water for the nature baths of nearby Lake Mývatn.

The Krafla Fires

The Krafla volcano erupted for the last time in 1984, but the decade before is notorious. Starting in 1975, the largest chain of volcanic outburst in recent times on Iceland took place. Over the course of nine years, Krafla causes many cracks in the earth, erupted multiple times and let lava flow. It is known as the Krafla Fires. Although, things have somewhat cooled down these days, steaming openings in the earth crust, blackened congealed lava and bubbling muddy pools can still be witnessed during a hike on through the Krafla system and its Leirhnjúkur crater. Fortunately, a safe passage is clearly marked with yellow-tipped sticks.

Hiking through the Leirhnjúkur crater.

One of the lower hills inside the Leirhnjúkur crater.

Steaming vents inside the Leirhnjúkur crater.

The hill nicknamed "clay mountain" inside the Steaming vents Steaming vents inside the Leirhnjúkur crater. Notice the two humans in front for perspective.

Krafla Geothermal Power Station

The Krafla Geothermal Station cannot be missed when visiting the Leirhnjúkur crater, as you pass it by on your way up. In began in 1978 with producing 7 megawatts of electricity, but has since expaned to 60 MW (465 GWh annually). The silver-coloured metal pipes that spread across the hills are very photogenic in the right light.

A geodesic dome over a wellhead at Krafla. It protects the wellhead. They can be found all over the place and are based on a design by Einar Þorsteinn Ásgeirsson (Einar Thorsteinn), an architect who designed structures especially for the rough Icelandic landscape and climate. The first dome was constructed in 1981, in the Krafla area. Back then it was made of fibreglass, but nowadays, the domes are of aluminium - as it is strong, light and can resist extreme temperatures well.

The blue-water Krafla crater lake, with car park for perspective, against the backdrop of the vast Leirhnjúkur crater.

Hverir

Hverir is a geothermal active area just south of the Leirhnjúkur crater. With nice light conditions, it feels one is continuing its journey on a remote planet. If you come early in the season, before the area is flooded with hundreds of tourists, sometimes bussed in 'en masse' from cruise ships from the cute town of Húsavík an hour away.

The road down to Hverir.

Smoking vents, bubbling mud pools and lower hills at Hverir.

All health issues ignored, these tourists dive into the geothermal smoke for a photo opp.

A rare moment, catching a single visitor against the backdrop of the lower hills at Hverir.

Unless you come early, this is the normal routine on a sunny day at Hverir.