Marcel Burger - Third time's the charm

View from Skansen Kronan, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.

Sipping coffee in a cardboard cup, enjoy the afternoon sun on the steps of the Stora Hamnkanalen, while a blue and white tram transports travellers from A to B across the bridge just behind you. The buzzing centre of Göteborg (Gothenburg) has its small marvels. Like the few canals around the oldest parts of town, the green zone surrounding the centre and the tree-lined avenues.

Tired of the 'buzzing', hop on the river ferry that gets you quickly west through the harbour — which is Scandinavia's biggest — or better: take another boat to the island in the archipelago further out.

With 613,000 inhabitants including the suburbs, Göteborg is Sweden's second-largest municipality, yet it has retained its modesty. The city is very easily reachable by car, train, boat, and easily accessible by public transport, bicycle or on foot.

It has been a while since I visited Gothenburg and took the time to aim my camera at some of its greatness. The photos in this story are from visits in 2009 and 2012.

Lejontrappen, Fontänbron and more, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.

View from the tram at Stora Hamnkanalen, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.

Discovering Göteborg

The heart of Gothenburg is situated between the Stora hamnkanalen (canal) and the old defensive moat further south, measuring about 800 metres/yards west to east and 400 metres/yards north-south. You will find many cafés, restaurants, sights, and shops there. Walk across the Södra Hamn via the bridges one enters the quieter northern part, with a few sights and, near the station, the large Nordstan shopping centre. Cross the canal on the southern edge via the parade (Kungsports)avenyen and one walks straight towards a few cultural highlights: the concert hall, the art museum and the art gallery.

Scandinavia's largest amusement park, Liseberg, is located southeast of this "art square" with the statue of Poseidon, and the best way to reach it is by taking a tram in that direction — unless you fancy a walk of 1,500 metres/years along Södra vägen.

The ferris wheel and the Liseberg tower, Gothenburg, October 2012

The north bank of the Göta river was once a bunch of industrial estates, but has more recently turned into residential neighbourhoods in the past two decades. Ramberget and Kellers Park give you a nice view from higher up, and if the weather is in your favour you can even see the harbour cranes further west, the landmark Älvsborgsbron (bridge), and further west the beginning of the Kattegat (officially called Hake Fjord there).

Gothenburg has two other major viewpoints, the most famous is the Lisebergtornet tower at 85 metres (279 feet) cabin altitude. Daredevils can be lifted to a height of 60 metres (199 feet) in the open air at Lisebergs Höjdskräcken, only to be shot back towards the earth like a projectile. If your heart cannot handle such adventure at heights there is also 'the Lipstick'. The panoramic platform (86 metres/282 feet) in the red-and-white striped tower near the Opera House on the south bank of the Göta älv (river) is a more slow-speed endeavour.

Winter day with the ship Barken Viking and Lipstickan (The Lipstick), February 2012

Evening the ship Barken Viking and Lipstickan (The Lipstick), February 2012

North of the Stora Hamnkanalen

Gothenburg Central Station is the oldest Swedish railway station at which one could (dis)embark a train sheltered by a roof, originally constructed in 1800. Photo taken October 2012.

King Gustav II Adolf continues to watch over Gothenburg in bronze from what was formerly called Stora Torg. Gothenburg was built on his orders. Photo taken in October 2012.

The white building on the corner with Östra Hamngatan is the old trad house, Börsen or Börshuset, and dates from 1849. Six sculptures symbolising Gothenburg adorn the facade: craftsmanship, happiness, trade, shipping, wealth, and industry. Photo taken in October 2012.

Tower of the Christinae Kyrka, 'the German church'. It was founded in 1623 by German immigrants that flocked to Gothenburg.

The Sahlgrenska Huset.

Göteborgs Operan (The Gothenburg Opera House)

The Göteborgs Operan, built in 1994 and designed by architect Jan Izikowitz, is prestigious, yet simultaneously appears sleek and friendly. It has a floor space of 28,700 square metres (94160 square feet). The Stora Scenen (large stage) is 500 m² (1640 ft²). Four height-adjustable stage platforms can support 15 tons of weight. Up to 1,000 lights can illuminate the stage, and they feature 250 colour changers and 900 dimmers.

The opera house's auditorium has a classic court theatre shape with parquet flooring and balconies. It seats 1,27601 spectators, and it can have up to 100 musicians in the orchestra pit.
In addition to opera, the building also hosts dance, musical, and operetta performances.

The Gothenburg Opera House, February 2012.

Kronhuset

Gothenburg's oldest stone building would not look out of place a Dutch city, as it was constructed in the Dutch style between 1642 and 1654 as an artillery magazine. Later, the Kronhuset (Crown House) was expanded on the west side with an original wooden equipment and carriage house, which burned down in 1750. The new western section dates from 1861. The eastern annex dates from 1759 and initially served as a pistol forge, saddlery, and gunsmith's workshop. Today, the Kronhuset serves as a concert hall. The professional wind orchestra GöteborgsMusiken is based there.

Kronhust on the left, February 2012.

Chocolaterie in a nearby building.

Detail of the Kronhuset

The Kronhuset

The nearby chocolate maker in February 2012.

View at the Kronhuset, February 2012.

Maritiman

Gothenburg Maritime Education Centre, or simply Maritiman, is a large, floating maritime museum. The cargo ship Fryken from 1938 is the largest (1,024 tonnes) civilian vessel, but the showpieces of the collection were originally designed for less peaceful conditions: the destroyer J19 Småland (3,344 tonnes) and the submarine Nordkaparen (837 tonnes).

J19 Småland

J19 Småland, and further to the left the sailing ship Barken Viking and the Lipstift tower, February 2012.

The cargo ship Fryken and an historic harbour crane, Maritiman, July 2009.

The city centre

Fish has been traded in Gothenburg since 1644, initially at Lilla Torget, but also at the Christinae Kyrka and Gustav Adolfs Torg. In 1874, the Feskekörka ("The Fish Church") was built in the western inner-city district of Rosenlund, designed by Viktor von Gegerfeldt. Even today, fish lovers can indulge themselves there, as the fish market is still fully operational. Photo taken in October 2012.

Fish has been traded in Gothenburg since 1644, initially at Lilla Torget, but also at the Christinae Kyrka and Gustav Adolfs Torg. In 1874, the Feskekörka was built in the western inner-city district of Rosenlund, designed by Viktor von Gegerfeldt. Even today, fish lovers can indulge themselves there, as the fish market is still fully operational. Photo taken in October 2012.

Trams at Kungsportsplatsen, July 2009.

Kungsportsplatsen, July 2009.

South of the old southern defence moat of the city centre

The Grand Theatre (Stora Teatern) in Göteborg, February 2012.

Vasagatan and the Gothenburg University, October 2012.

Viewed from the city centre, Götaplatsen is located at the end of Kungsportsavenyn. Götaplatsen is the cultural heart of the city and was constructed in 1923 to celebrate 300 years of Gothenburg. The Konstmuseum (Art Museum) dominates, and the statue of Poseidon by Carl Milles is hard to miss. Besides the Konstmuseum, the square has the Konsthallen (Art Gallery), the Hasselblad Center (of the renowned camera brand), the Konserthuset (Concert Hall), the Stadsteatern (City Theatre), and the Stadsbiblioteket (City Library).

The Art Gallery.

The Concert Hall.

The City Theatre.

Doors to the Art Museum (Konstmuseet).

A statue outside.

Close-up of the ticket office of the Art Museum (Konstmuseum), October 2012.

The Hasselblad photography centre in the Art Museum's building, October 2012.

Close-up of the ticket office of the Concert Hall, October 2012.

Close-up of the ticket office of the City Theatre, October 2012.

Haga

The Dutch, English, Scottish, and German labourers who constructed Göteborg from 1619 to 1623 mostly lived in Haga in makeshift housing. It was not until 1660 that an official city plan for Haga was established.

The military garrison in the Skansen Kronan fortress long hindered the full development of the district. Only after the importance of the military positions declined around the year 1800, Haga moved forward towards the future. As new industries established themselves in Gothenburg from the year 1840, many workers found accommodation in Haga, and the population grew from 3,000 to 10,000 people in 40 years, 85 percent of whom were blue-collar workers.

Changing social conditions and associated demands in the early 20th century, followed by the deterioration of the old district from 1950 onwards, caused the population of Haga to decline to a meager 3,000 in the early 1970s. The army artillery unit left Haga in 1980, freeing up former military housing.

Haga has been redeveloped since, and is a great place to visit for its few quant streets and cute cafés. It is still a relatively quiet neighbourhood in the city.

Haga Nygatan, the main street of Haga, October 2012.

On top of the hill that holds the compact historic fortress of Skansen Kronan in Haga, Gothenburg, October 2012.

View at Haga from the Skansen Kronan hill, October 2012.

The Haga Church.

Seen here from Skansen Kronan hill.

The compact historic fortress of Skansen Kronan, on top of the hill overlooking Haga and more of Gothenburg, October 2012.

Haga Nygatan, the main street of the neighbourhood, October 2012.

View from Skansen Kronan at the Oscar Fredrik Church, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.

View over Haga and more of Gothenburg from the hill of Skansen Kronan, October 2012. On the far right the Liseberg tower in the amusement park. In the centre near the horizon the Ullevi football stadium.

Eriksberg & Lindholmen

Eriksberg and Lindholmen are two areas on the northern banks of the Göta river. Once these were industrial zones, but over more than two decades the city has turned them into residential areas. Some of the historic industrial parts are kept, for example from the Eriksberg shipyard. Eriksberg and Lindholmen are most fun to reach by the Älvsnabben, the river boat that is part of the city's public transport network. In Lindholmen one also finds Chalmers University of Technology.

The Eriksberg crane and residential buildings, with further away the "Golden Gate Bridge" of Gothenburg: Älvsborgsbron. February 2012.

Make-shift outdoor seating on a pier, February 2012.

The former Eriksberg Shipyard, with the Eriksbergshallen (left) turned into a hotel, February 2012.

The Gothenburg Harbour and Göta Älv (river)

The best way to discover the harbour of Gothenburg is to check the view from the top of the Lipstick building near the Opera, and to take a ride on the Älvsnabben public transport boat. In winter times it can give an added experience if ice has formed on the river. It might not feel like Titanic, but for those who never had ice hitting a boat it is something special.

Facing the southern banks (city side) of the Göta river from the stearn of the Älvsnabben public transport river boat, February 2012.

A Damen Shipyards floating dry dock in the Gothenburg harbour, February 2012.

The motorshiop Marieholm at the centre-side quay, February 2012.

The Älvborgsbron bridge and the Eriksberg crane, October 2012.

LPG bunker ship Championship and a ferry boat to the Gothenburg archipelago, October 2012.

Harbour cranes at sunset, October 2012.

Nya Varvet

Further west from Gothenburg's inner city lies Nya Varvet, the New Wharf. This was shipyard and naval base since 1700 to 1984. Some of the historic military buildings still stand, and even the bunker area inside the rocks can be discovered. Photos from October 2012.

The old administrative building, part of the former military barracks of Nya Varvet, Gothenburg. The original guards house is from 1820.

Former military buildings at Nya Varvet.

Former military buildings of Nya Varvet.

The stone that commemorates the commissioning of Nya Varvet in 1700.

The former military base of Nya Varvet.

Entrance to a bunker inside the rocks, Nya Varvet, Gothenburg.

Aeroseum

Nya Varvet is not the only former military base one can visit in the Gothenburg area. North of the city, at Säve Airport, is even a complete underground airbase. The Aeroseum shows what it looked like during the heights of the Cold War in the former century, with loads of historic military aircraft. Take a seat in the cockpit of a legendary Saab Draken (Dragon) for instance, or see a Viggen in camouflage paint scheme up close.

Historic Swedish Saab fighter jets inside the underground base that is now the Aeroseum, north of Gothenburg, February 2015.