View from Skansen Kronan, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.
Sipping coffee in a cardboard cup, enjoy the afternoon sun on the steps of the Stora Hamnkanalen, while a blue and white tram transports travellers from A to B across the bridge just behind you. The buzzing centre of Göteborg (Gothenburg) has its small marvels. Like the few canals around the oldest parts of town, the green zone surrounding the centre and the tree-lined avenues.
Tired of the 'buzzing', hop on the river ferry that gets you quickly west through the harbour — which is Scandinavia's biggest — or better: take another boat to the island in the archipelago further out.
With 613,000 inhabitants including the suburbs, Göteborg is Sweden's second-largest municipality, yet it has retained its modesty. The city is very easily reachable by car, train, boat, and easily accessible by public transport, bicycle or on foot.
It has been a while since I visited Gothenburg and took the time to aim my camera at some of its greatness. The photos in this story are from visits in 2009 and 2012.
Lejontrappen, Fontänbron and more, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.
View from the tram at Stora Hamnkanalen, Göteborg, Sweden, October 2012.
Discovering Göteborg
The heart of Gothenburg is situated between the Stora hamnkanalen (canal) and the old defensive moat further south, measuring about 800 metres/yards west to east and 400 metres/yards north-south. You will find many cafés, restaurants, sights, and shops there. Walk across the Södra Hamn via the bridges one enters the quieter northern part, with a few sights and, near the station, the large Nordstan shopping centre. Cross the canal on the southern edge via the parade (Kungsports)avenyen and one walks straight towards a few cultural highlights: the concert hall, the art museum and the art gallery.
Scandinavia's largest amusement park, Liseberg, is located southeast of this "art square" with the statue of Poseidon, and the best way to reach it is by taking a tram in that direction — unless you fancy a walk of 1,500 metres/years along Södra vägen.
The ferris wheel and the Liseberg tower, Gothenburg, October 2012
The north bank of the Göta river was once a bunch of industrial estates, but has more recently turned into residential neighbourhoods in the past two decades. Ramberget and Kellers Park give you a nice view from higher up, and if the weather is in your favour you can even see the harbour cranes further west, the landmark Älvsborgsbron (bridge), and further west the beginning of the Kattegat (officially called Hake Fjord there).
Gothenburg has two other major viewpoints, the most famous is the Lisebergtornet tower at 85 metres (279 feet) cabin altitude. Daredevils can be lifted to a height of 60 metres (199 feet) in the open air at Lisebergs Höjdskräcken, only to be shot back towards the earth like a projectile. If your heart cannot handle such adventure at heights there is also 'the Lipstick'. The panoramic platform (86 metres/282 feet) in the red-and-white striped tower near the Opera House on the south bank of the Göta älv (river) is a more slow-speed endeavour.
Winter day with the ship Barken Viking and Lipstickan (The Lipstick), February 2012
Evening the ship Barken Viking and Lipstickan (The Lipstick), February 2012
North of the Stora Hamnkanalen
Gothenburg Central Station is the oldest Swedish railway station at which one could (dis)embark a train sheltered by a roof, originally constructed in 1800. Photo taken October 2012.
King Gustav II Adolf continues to watch over Gothenburg in bronze from what was formerly called Stora Torg. Gothenburg was built on his orders. Photo taken in October 2012.
The white building on the corner with Östra Hamngatan is the old trad house, Börsen or Börshuset, and dates from 1849. Six sculptures symbolising Gothenburg adorn the facade: craftsmanship, happiness, trade, shipping, wealth, and industry. Photo taken in October 2012.
Tower of the Christinae Kyrka, 'the German church'. It was founded in 1623 by German immigrants that flocked to Gothenburg.
The Sahlgrenska Huset.
Göteborgs Operan (The Gothenburg Opera House)
The Göteborgs Operan, built in 1994 and designed by architect Jan Izikowitz, is prestigious, yet simultaneously appears sleek and friendly. It has a floor space of 28,700 square metres (94160 square feet). The Stora Scenen (large stage) is 500 m² (1640 ft²). Four height-adjustable stage platforms can support 15 tons of weight. Up to 1,000 lights can illuminate the stage, and they feature 250 colour changers and 900 dimmers.
The opera house's auditorium has a classic court theatre shape with parquet flooring and balconies. It seats 1,27601 spectators, and it can have up to 100 musicians in the orchestra pit.
In addition to opera, the building also hosts dance, musical, and operetta performances.
In addition to opera, the building also hosts dance, musical, and operetta performances.
The Gothenburg Opera House, February 2012.
Kronhuset
Gothenburg's oldest stone building would not look out of place a Dutch city, as it was constructed in the Dutch style between 1642 and 1654 as an artillery magazine. Later, the Kronhuset (Crown House) was expanded on the west side with an original wooden equipment and carriage house, which burned down in 1750. The new western section dates from 1861. The eastern annex dates from 1759 and initially served as a pistol forge, saddlery, and gunsmith's workshop. Today, the Kronhuset serves as a concert hall. The professional wind orchestra GöteborgsMusiken is based there.
Kronhust on the left, February 2012.
Chocolaterie in a nearby building.
Detail of the Kronhuset
The Kronhuset
The nearby chocolate maker in February 2012.
View at the Kronhuset, February 2012.
Maritiman
Gothenburg Maritime Education Centre, or simply Maritiman, is a large, floating maritime museum. The cargo ship Fryken from 1938 is the largest (1,024 tonnes) civilian vessel, but the showpieces of the collection were originally designed for less peaceful conditions: the destroyer J19 Småland (3,344 tonnes) and the submarine Nordkaparen (837 tonnes).
J19 Småland
J19 Småland, and further to the left the sailing ship Barken Viking and the Lipstift tower, February 2012.
The cargo ship Fryken and an historic harbour crane, Maritiman, July 2009.
More of Göteborg coming soon ...